Crochet Spring Bunting Pattern

Here’s a pattern I wrote recently for another class I was teaching – I’ve only made three bunting triangles for this sample but you could make it as long as you like! I hope you like it x


Crochet Spring Bunting:

 You will need:

DK yarn in a variety of colours (I have used white, yellow, pink and green)

4mm crochet hook

Needle for sewing in ends
To make the bunting triangles:

With yellow yarn, ch6 and join with a slip stitch to form a foundation ring.

Ch3 (counts as a tr), 11tr into the ring and slst to join (12tr)

Change to white yarn, join in any stitch, ch3, sk1, ss into next stitch – continue all the way around (will give you 6 chain spaces).

*Slip stitch into next chain space, ch2, her, 2tr, 2htr, ss into next ch space* continue all the way around. Cut the yarn and fasten off with white.

Join the pink yarn in between 2tr. Dc. *ch4 then between the next 2tr (2tr, ch3, 2tr), ch4, dc in between next 2tr*. Continue around, slst to join. (This will form 3 corners)

Ch2 (counts as a htr), *4htr around chain, htr into next 2 stitches, then (2htr, ch3, 2htr) into corner space. Htr into next 2 stitches, 4htr around chain, htr into dc from previous round*, continue to end, join with a slst and fasten off.
For the border:

Join the green yarn in a corner space, ch3, sk1, slst into next stitch, *ch3, sk1, slst into next stitch* continue all the way around two sides of the triangle (at the tip/corner of the triangle slst into corner space, ch3, slst into corner space again, then continue as before).

Fasten off after two sides are done. Repeat for each bunting triangle.

Joining the bunting:

With green yarn ch10, slst into first ch to form a loop (this will enable you to hang the bunting easily). Then ch25. This is when I joined my first bunting triangle – dc into each stitch along the side of the triangle that doesn’t have a border yet. Then ch15 again before adding your next triangle, and continue like this until all triangles have been added. After the last triangle ch35, then slst into the 10th chain from the hook to form a matching hanging loop to the one at the other end. Weave in ends. (Obviously if you want the triangles closer/further apart you can vary the number of ch stitches in between).

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Easy Crochet Basket Pattern

I love making crochet baskets – they’re incredibly versatile and quick and easy to make. I recently taught a class on hot to crochet a basket and thought I’d share the pattern on my blog too…so here it is!

You Will Need:

T-shirt yarn (approx 240g)

10mm crochet hook

Needle (for sewing in ends)

Stitch marker

How to make the basket:

Round 1: Using the t-shirt yarn, form a magic ring, 6dc into the ring and tighten (6)

Round 2: 2dc in each stitch (place a stitch marker into your first stitch, and for every round) (12)

Round 3: 1dc into first stitch, 2dc into the next stitch *dc, 2dc* until end of the round (18)

Round 4: 2dc into first stitch, dc into the next two stitches *2dc, dc, dc* until end of round (24)

Round 5: *2dc, dc into next 3 stitches* (30)

Round 6: dc in back loops only for the whole round (30)

Rounds 7-10: dc in every stitch (30) (Nb this is 4 rounds)

Round 11: dc in first 5 stitches, ch8, skip 5 stitches from previous round, dc into the next stitch and the following 9 stitches. Ch8, skip 5 stitches, dc into the last 5 stitches. (36)

Round 12: dc in every stitch, when you get to the chain sections, dc 8 over the chain and then continue with the dc until the end. (36)

Finish off and weave in ends
Ta-dah that’s it! These make great little gift baskets or storage solutions – happy crocheting!x

Easter petal basket pattern

I love crochet baskets – big ones are great for storing yarn, you can make nesting ones and hanging ones, I even have a small one on my desk for pens. I wrote this pattern for the hobbycraft blog last year and thought I’d share it here too for anyone who would like to make it.


How To Make An Easter Petal Basket
You Will Need:

2x balls of Conway + Bliss Odin in Lilac

8mm hook

Small amounts of Hayfield Bonus DK in green, yellow and white

Needle (for sewing in ends)

Stitch marker
How to make the basket:

Working with two strands of Debbie Bliss Odin at the same time:

Form a magic ring, 6dc into the ring and tighten (6)

2dc in each stitch (place a stitch marker into your first stitch, and for every round) (12)

1dc into first stitch, 2dc into the next stitch *dc, 2dc* until end of the round (18)

2dc into first stitch, dc into the next two stitches *2dc, dc, dc* until end of round (24)

*2dc, dc into next 3 stitches* (30)

dc in front loops only for the whole round (30)

Rounds 7-15: dc in every stitch (30) (Nb this is 9 rounds)

*dc, ch1, skip 1* repeat until end of round (30)

dc into every dc and ch space from previous round (30)

Slip stitch into next stitch, *skip 2, 7tr into next stitch, skip 2, slst* repeat until end of round (this forms the petal edge of the basket)

Finish off and weave in ends


To make the daisy garland:
Leaf 1: With Hayfield Bonus DK in green, ch8, then working down the chain into each chain stitch work the following: sk1, slst, dc, htr, tr, htr, dc then slst and ch1.

Working down the other side of the original ch8, now work: slst, dc, htr, tr, htr, dc, slst.

Now chain 108 stitches (this should comfortably go round the circumference of your basket – adjust as necessary). Once you’ve done this, put a safety pin or stitch marker through your last chain and then thread it through the holes in your basket made in round 16 until it comes back out at the start – make sure Leaf 1 remains at the start and doesn’t get threaded through.

Make Leaf 2 by following the Leaf 1 instructions on the last 8 chains you made.

Finish off and weave in ends.

To make the daisy – with yellow, 6dc in magic ring and tighten. Then 2dc into each stitch and fasten off (12).

Join the white yarn into any stitch from the previous round, ch4 then slst into next stitch, *slst, ch4, slst* until end of round (forms 6 chain petals).

*Slst into chain space of next petal, ch1 then htr, tr, htr, dc, (all in the same petal chain space) then slst into next stitch* repeat until end. (6 petals)

Sew the daisy onto the green leaf chain where the two ends meet above the leaves.

Happy making! I’d love to see any baskets you make so if you’re on Instagram feel free to tag me @holly_pips

Xx

 

Crochet Watermelon Cushion – pattern

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Watermelons seem to be everywhere this summer, and my lovely friend Jane from Tea & Crafting is watermelon-mad! Since last summer I know she’s been intending to make some watermelon bunting, but with two small children and her own business she (understandably) hasn’t had the time! So when a special birthday for her was coming up this year I couldn’t resist crocheting her something watermelon-related.

Here’s a really simple crochet pattern I’ve written down in case you want to make your own watermelon cushion.

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Materials:

Round 16″ cushion insert

King Cole Big Value Chunky – 1x ball each of Bright Pink, Moss and Green

6mm hook

Black toggle buttons (I used 19mm buttons)\

Black embroidery thread (to sew on buttons)

Green buttons (if you want an opening for your cushion insert so it’s removable – this is optional)

Needle for sewing in ends

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Pattern: (US terms)

Front of watermelon:

[This is worked in rounds, not a continuous spiral, so we slip stitch join at the end of each round to where we began the round]

  • Round 1: Using your pink yarn, ch3 (counts as a stitch) and then HDC into the 3rd chain from your hook.  Do this 6 more times (into the same chain) which will give you 8 stitches in total. Join with a slip stitch to the chain at the start of the round (Do this at the end of each round).
  • Round 2: Ch2, HDC into same stitch.  2HDC into each stitch, and join with a slip stitch to the 2ch at the start. (16 stitches)
  • Round 3: Ch2 (counts as HDC), HDC in same stitch. 1 HDC in next stitch, *2HDC, 1 HDC* until end (24 stitches)
  • Round 4: Ch2, HDC in next stitch, 2HDC in next stitch, *HDC in the next 2 stitches, 2xHDC in the next stitch* until end (32 stitches)
  • Round 5: Ch2, HDC in same stitch, HDC in next 3 stitches, *2xHDC, HDC in next 3 stitches* until end (40 stitches)
  • Round 6: Ch2 (counts as a HDC), HDC in next 3 stitches, 2HDC, *HDC in next 4 stitches, 2HDC* until end (48 stitches)
  • Round 7: Ch2, HDC in same stitch, HDC in next 5 stitches, *2HDC, HDC in next 5 stitches* until end (56 stitches)
  • Round 8: Ch2, HDC in next 2 stitches, *2HDC, HDC in next 6 stitches*, (until last 4 stitches) 2HDC, HDC in last 3 stitches (64 stitches)
  • Round 9: Ch2, HDC in same stitch, HDC in next 7 stitches, *2HDC, HDC in next 7 stitches* until end (72 stitches)
  • Round 10: Ch2, HDC in next 3 stitches, *2HDC, HDC in next 8 stitches* until last 5 stitches, 2HDC, HDC in last 4 stitches (80 stitches)
  • Round 11: Ch2, HDC in same stitch, HDC in next 9 stitches, *2HDC, HDC in next 9 stitches* until end (88 stitches)
  • Round 12: Ch2, HDC in next 4 stitches, *2HDC, HDC in next 10 stitches* (until last 6 stitches), 2HDC, HDC in last 5 stitches (96 stitches)
  • Round 13: Ch2, HDC in same stitch, HDC in next 11 stitches, *2HDC, HDC in next 11 stitches* until end (104 stitches)
  • Round 14: Ch2, HDC in next 5 stitches, *2HDC, HDC in next 12 stitches*, (until last 7 stitches), 2HDC, HDC in the last 6 stitches (112) Change to light green (moss) yarn
  • Round 15: Ch2, HDC in same stitch, HDC in next 13 stitches, *2HDC, HDC in next 13 stitches* until end (120 stitches)
  • Round 16: Ch2, HDC in next 6 stitches, *2HDC, HDC in next 14 stitches* HDC in last 7 stitches (128 stitches)   Change to dark green (Green) yarn
  • Round 17: Ch2, HDC in same stitch, HDC in next 15 stitches, *2HDC, HDC in next 15 stitches*

Reverse/Back of watermelon:

Using the same pattern above, use light green yarn for Round 1, then change to dark green for rounds 2-17.

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You will have two circles of the same size (check that they reach the seams of your cushion insert when you lay them over it – they should reach if you stretch them a bit.  If they are too small, add another round of dark green)

To add the pattern to the back of the watermelon (light green lines, as in picture above) insert your hook into the hole at the centre of the circle and pull up a loop of light green yarn.  You are then going to chain stitch to the edge, so insert your hook again a couple of rounds up and pull up a loop and go through the loop on your hook.  Keep the yarn under cushion while you work and finish off when you get to the end, but don’t pull too tight as it will pinch the edge of the circle in.  Leave an end to weave in.  I did this 6 times to make the lines radiating out from the centre as above.

At this point stitch your black toggles onto the front of the cushion using black embroidery thread.  I’ve used 5 but you can add as many as you like, alternatively large black sequins would look good.

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Weave in ends.

 

Joining the sides together:

The sides of your cushion are joined by single crocheting them together (or DC in UK terms).  You can either join all the way round, or if you want the cushion pad to be removable, join 3/4 of the way round and then create buttonholes on one side only (see pic below).  Space these according to how many buttons you want to use.

IMG_2621

I wanted a neat finish so joined all the way round mine.  With the wrong sides together, join your dark green yarn, ch1 and then SC through both loops of both the front and back pieces of your cushion (going under 4 loops in total – see picture below), continue to SC all the way round, join with a slip stitch, finish off and weave in ends.

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And voila! One very cute, bright and tropical watermelon cushion!

Happy Birthday Jane and I hope you like your cushion!xxx